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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee familiar high-end venues. Yet, situated high among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The accolade has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” states the proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small place securing such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.